When you begin designing your home gym, the best thing you can do is start with the floors. Choosing the wrong flooring can ruin the function of your gym and can also lead to injury. You want to install a floor that will protect the structure underneath, and prevent injury to those using it.

Choosing the best exercise room flooring depends largely on what type of equipment you plan on having in your home gym. This article will discuss three flooring options. While some are better than others, you might be able to get away with a more affordable option depending on the intended use. 

Rubber Flooring 

This is by far the best and most recommended flooring type for those designing an exercise room. It provides the necessary cushion needed for heavy weights and equipment. It also gives you a non-slip surface that is key to preventing serious injury. The “give” that rubber flooring provides is also a fantastic shock absorber in case you fall or drop a heavy weight. 

You can find rubber-flooring options that are manufactured specifically for home exercise rooms. They can be purchased in long rolls or rubber tiles. Be sure to buy a high-quality brand especially when dealing with the rubber tiles. Cheaper options of rubber tiles have a tendency to slide and create gaps and overlapping which can be dangerous.

Carpet 

Carpet is generally not recommended for this type of home project. The standard high pile can create uneven surfaces for gym equipment—making the equipment a huge safety hazard. If you are going to use carpet, be sure you choose a low-pile carpet. The heavy-duty carpets that are designed for high traffic areas are the best way to go. However, there is very little cushion with this option, so it is not advised for people using heavy equipment like free weights.

Laminate Flooring

Always choose a high-quality laminate flooring for your home exercise room. Again, this option is not as ideal as rubber flooring, but will do the trick depending on your workout plans. If you are looking for more of a yoga/Pilates studio, then laminate is a much more cost-effective solution. Again, if you plan on doing serious weight training, rubber is the best and safest flooring for your home exercise room.

These are three of the more common floor types people consider when building a home gym. As you can see rubber is the best flooring type for your exercise room. Contact a local flooring dealer using our search portal to learn more about what type and what brand of flooring you should use for your fitness room. 

Most cases, the issues arise with Cutback Adhesive over concrete. If the Cutback Adhesive is on a wood underlayment you may remove the underlayment or cover the Cutback Adhesive with a layer of plastic or felt paper (not roofing felt) then install new underlayment. The felt or plastic keeps the tack from the adhesive sticking and releasing from the underlayment causing a popping sound under the underlayment. 

Other issues associated with Cutback Adhesive are:

• Hardwood and some Vinyl Adhesives do not adhere to the Cutback Adhesive 

• Old Cutback Adhesive can contain asbestos

Then comes the age old question, “How do I deal with the Cutback Adhesive?”

There are options. 

• If the cutback does not contain asbestos, you may grind or even shot blast the adhesive away. Shot blasting then requires a self leveling compound to smooth out the rough subflooring.

• You can patch or self level over the Cutback Adhesive using a cementious compound. Please note, some manufacturers require a 1/8” application of cementious compound to prevent bleeding. 

• Mapei Self Leveling

• When self leveling over cutback here are the general rules 

• Remove excessive adhesive until you have “residual” adhesive left.
• Prime with a primer designed for this application like MAPEI’s Primer T
• Install a self leveler that go over a floor that has not been mechanically profile. MAPEI’s Ultraplan Easy is an example of this type of self leveling underlayment.

• Mapei Patching Compounds Planiprep SC and Planipatch
  • You should achieve complete coverage and that will leave a “new” porous substrate to glue to. 
  • Please note; many installers just skim coat Ardex Feather Finish over the Cutback Adhesive residue. This is what Ardex says; the existing adhesive also must be tested to verify that it does not interact with the new flooring adhesive, and the new flooring must be tested to ensure it is not susceptible to bleed through of the existing adhesive. If adhesive interaction and/or migration are a concern, install an ARDEX self-leveling material such as ARDEX K 15 Premium Self-Leveling Underlayment.

• In many commercial renovation projects, they use liquid adhesive removers which do a great job of removing the old Cutback Adhesive, but can come back up through the slab at some point in time and eat away at the newly applied adhesive.

• I recently discovered that JJ Haines sells a product called Triseal Adhesive Residue Encapsulator (item #632861 from Interface). Triseal is a light-colored, high-strength acrylic polymer compound formulated to isolate cutback and other types of old adhesive residues that would affect the bond of the new floor adhesive over concrete substrates. This is a single coat application. The key word here is residue.

You may use water based adhesives over the Triseal, but urethane Hardwood Adhesives are not recommended. For vinyl and rubber flooring, the adhesive must be able to be used dry to the touch. If the vinyl or rubber flooring is set into the adhesive wet, the adhesive will not dry out. The Triseal cannot absorb the adhesive moisture and the vinyl or rubber will not absorb the adhesive moisture. The adhesive will remain wet for a long period of time leading to indentation and possibly adhesive bleeding. Triseal blocks the migration of the plasticizers to prevent vinyl staining. 

Below are some recommendations for installing different categories of flooring over Cutback Adhesive:

Vinyl Composition Tile

• Armstrong VCT Adhesives may go directly over Cutback Adhesive. Existing adhesives must be left so that no ridges or puddles are evident and what remains is a thin, smooth film. 

• Mapei ECO 711VCT Adhesive must have the adhesive removed or covered. Can prime with Mapei Primer T, then use ECO 711.

• Mapei ECO 611 can direct bond to cutback

Many other VCT manufacturers recommend that the adhesive be removed or covered. 

Earlier, I spoke about the use of “Adhesive Removers” and resilient flooring. If you are doing any kind of renovation work you want to start asking questions about what kind of flooring was down previously and how was it removed?

Adhesive Removers are not recommended or endorsed by the Resilient Floor Covering Industry. RFCI states; “These products may leave a solvent residue within the sub-floor that can adversely affect the new adhesive or floor covering. Thus, the warranties provided by the manufacturers of new floor covering materials will not cover instances where subfloor conditions damage their products or effect their installation”. It does not matter if they are solvent, citrus, or soy based, these products are not recommended. Skim coating over a slab where these products have been used will not stop these products. The Adhesive Remover products can be absorbed into the subfloor and migrate up at some later point in time and eat away at the new adhesive you just installed. Remember, if you accept the slab, you accept responsibility. You need to ask questions before proceeding. 

Mapei does have a system for encapsulating the Adhesive Remover products: 

• First, the slab must be cleaned using Mapei Planiprep SA which is a scouring agent that chemically etches the concrete for the next step. 

• Second, the slab is then treated with Planiprep ET. Planiprep ET is a penetrating epoxy subfloor treatment that penetrates deeply into the concrete and strengthening and creating a suitable surface for application of all Mapei adhesives that are approved for use on non-porous substrates. 

• If the slab would need smoothed out, prime the Planiprep ET with Mapei Primer T and then skim coat over the Primer T.

The Mapei system above provides subfloor moisture control for concrete slabs up to 12-lbs. Calcium Chloride and 90% Relative Humidity without the need for shot blasting the concrete.

• Sandpaper (Extra Coarse)
• Matching Spare Cork Flooring Tile
• 2 Craft Sticks
• Paint BrushFurniture Pads

Cork flooring is very resilient and usually won’t need a lot of repairs. Most items that are accidentally dropped will bounce off your cork floor without leaving any damage behind. However there may be times when your floors will get a dent or two. One of the most common causes of cork floor damage is when people place heavy furniture on the floor for an extended period of time with little or no protection. 

This article discusses how to repair dents, but if the damage to your cork flooring tile is significant it might be better for you to just replace the damaged cork floor tile in its entirety. For the purposes of this guide, we will be talking about small dents.  

1. Clean the Surface

Grab a damp (not wet) sponge and wipe the cork tile you are repairing clean. Allow time for the floor to completely dry before moving on to step 2.

2. Create the Dust

Take a spare cork tile that matches your existing floor and hold it over something that will catch the dust. A small plastic bowl will due. Rub your coarse sandpaper on the edge of the spare tile creating cork dust. Continue until you have enough to fill the dent.

3. Mix

Mix a small amount of clear polyurethane with the cork dust you just created using one of the craft sticks to stir. You know you have enough once you have a peanut butter/putty consistency. Remember to always mix polyurethane in a well-ventilated area. 

4. Apply

Place your mixture in the dent and level it out using your other craft stick. Let your mixture set and dry overnight. 

5. Seal it Off

The next day, apply a clear coat of polyurethane with your paintbrush. Apply a little along the edges of the repair to help create a stronger seal. Leave plenty of time for the coating to dry before walking or placing anything on the area. 

6. Put Furniture Back

Before setting any furniture on the repaired area, make sure you insert some quality protective pads under the legs to help prevent any further damage. 

And that should do it! Remember to always follow the manufacturer guidelines when doing any repairs to your floor. Not doing so can result in your warranty being voided.

This article discusses two bold flooring choices that make your home look amazing. It also provides the necessary guidance to ensure the “in-your-head masterpiece” looks just as incredible in real life. You’ll be surprised how unintimidating these flooring options can be with a little interior design knowledge.

Bold Option # 1: Dark Wood Floors

Dark wood floors bring sophistication and character to the home’s of those brave enough to try it. But you need more than just bravery. You need a little know-how too. Master these interior design principles and you’ll have a room that gets people talking.

What they do:

Dark wood floors essentially act as a neutral element and help set the stage for you to build your decor on. But be careful. They have a tendency to overpower and distract from lighter color elements. To prevent this, and keep the balance, replicate the color of the floor elsewhere in the room (pillows, lamps and picture frames are the easiest ways to do this).

Using a high-gloss on your dark wood floors is a great way to add a sense of depth and it will reflect your furniture giving your room a classy look and feel. You’d be surprised how well dark wood floors fit in with most decorating styles.

Bold Option # 2: White Wood Flooring

Although white wood flooring is not as intimidating as dark hardwood, it’s still a risk some home owners aren’t prepared to take. Make a bold statement in your room by choosing a flooring option that will deliver a light and airy atmosphere.

What they do:

White wood flooring lifts a room and creates the illusion of space. It’s a great way to give your room a  blank canvas to showcase your decor. Because white is extremely neutral, your white hardwood will go well with pretty much any design style you wish to have. They are extremely complementary to strong, fresh color choices and will help your other bold choices stand out.

Your styles may change pretty dramatically over time. What you liked 15 years ago may not be your style today. White hardwood flooring is a great option because it will transition seamlessly as your decor evolves and changes over time. So don’t be afraid of bold. It’s what makes your home a reflection of who you are.

Before proceeding with any installation, there are a few questions to factor in before proceeding:

• What type of flooring is to be installed?
  • Commercial floors generally have a smooth face and will show any subfloor defects
  • For most Resilient flooring, subfloor flatness is 3/16 of an inch in 10 feet

• New Construction or Remodel?
  • If it is remodel, what flooring was previously installed and how was it removed?

• What condition is the subfloor in?
  • Five words to remember in subfloor prep:
    • Clean
    • Smooth
    • Structurally Sound
    • Level
    • Dry

• Has the subfloor been tested for Moisture and pH?
  • All concrete subfloors on any level should be tested for moisture and pH and documented
  • Hardwood installations over wood subfloors should be checked for moisture and documented
  • Have sealers or curing compounds been used?

• What is the subfloor and what is it over?
  • Concrete, Gypsum, or Wood
  • Crawl Space? 

The above photos are what happens when subfloors are not prepped appropriately. The one on the left shows high spots in subfloor getting burned while burnishing. The center shows wavy & uneven subfloor telegraphing. The photo on the right shows no subfloor prep at all. The owner did not want to pay for prep, now he’s complaining.

The images above show poor concrete. Existing Tile was removed and did this to the subfloor. GC wanted flooring contractor to only skim the floor, not take care of the subfloor issue.

Images above show subfloor out 1/2″ in 12″ causing burnish marks and cracking over raised areas in subfloor.

I am still surprised today that with all the Loose Lay Flooring we have seen through the years, we still continue to have the same issues today that we first had back in 1994. People today still ignore the basic rules for a floating floor:

1. Floating floors need an expansion zone 
2. Floating floors require floor prep too 
3. Cabinets should not be installed on top of a floating floor 
4. Do not nail moldings or transitions into the floating floor 
5. Floating floors are not for every installation or everyone 

In today’s flooring portfolio of products we have floating Carpet Tile, Ceramic Tile, Cork Flooring, Hardwood Flooring, Luxury Vinyl Tile, Sheet Flooring, and floating Subfloors and Underlayments. These products cover a large spectrum of the flooring market and yet they all basically have the same requirements which are listed above ….and continue to be ignored today.

Let’s look at the requirements in depth:

1. Expansion Zones – most, not all, floating floors require an expansion zone. This expansion zone is not just at the outer walls, it is around any vertical object. This includes cabinets, walls, and pipes. This expansion zone is to accommodate for the subfloor moving as it goes through seasonal change. Yes, concrete and wood subfloors will move as we go through seasonal change. In most cases, the flooring products will not grow or change size unless influenced by an outside factor such as moisture. For example, a floating hardwood floor in a stable environment of 70^°F and 35% relative humidity will have very little change, but generally requires a ½″ expansion zone. This expansion zone is to accommodate the subfloor movement through seasonal change. If one area of the expansion zone is compromised, this is an area where the flooring can hang up and create a pinch point and buckle or separate. If installing a floating LVT product that requires a ¼″ expansion zone and most of the fit pieces are at the ¼″ expansion, and one piece is tight with no expansion, this negates the expansion zone which could cause the floor to fail. It only takes one spot to cause a flooring failure. P.S. if using spacers, please remember to remove them.  

2. Floating Floors Require Floor Prep – Floating floors do require subfloor prep. They are not made to hide bad subfloors. The subfloor flatness requirements for a floating floor are the same as for a glue down floor. For the flooring industry, that is ¼ inch in 10 feet or ⅛ inch in 6 feet. If the subfloor has peaks and valleys in it, you could compromise the locking system of the flooring which could cause it to disengage and unlock. With stiffer floating floors like Ceramic, Laminate and Hardwood, it could lead to creaking noises and cracking and breaking of the locking mechanism. If the floor is rough and bumpy, it will need to be smoothed or skimmed out. Going over a rough subfloor will lead to uneven wear patterns even in a floating floor. The Clic together LVT products on the market today, require a smoother flatter floor, or they are very difficult to lock together. A customer that can’t afford floor prep can’t afford a floor either, and you can’t afford the call back!

3. Cabinets should not be installed on top of a floating floor – For some reason, people want the flooring in first, and then they want the cabinets and islands installed on top of the flooring. This cannot happen with a floating floor. You have just locked this floor down and  created a massive pinch point and sometime in the near future there will have a buckle in the flooring. 

4. Do not nail moldings or transitions into the floating floor – Moldings and Transition pieces must be nailed or fastened into the wall or substrate, not into the flooring. Nailing or fastening through the floating floor creates a pinch point and will cause a buckling failure. When floating vinyl sheet floors were first introduced to the builder market the sheet flooring was installed first, then the carpet installers came in and nailed Z-Bar and tack strip into the sheet flooring which lead to the vinyl floor buckling. Unfortunately for the vinyl installer, they were blamed for the buckles and had to fix them at their time and expense.  

5. Floating floors are not for every installation or everyone – Floating floors can solve a host of issues, like not having to remove asbestos flooring and floating a floor right over it. However, there are some scenarios where a floating floor is not the best option. An area that will be subject to heavy rolling loads is probably not the best option for a floating floor. A family kitchen on suspended wood subfloor that drops backs a hallway, into the laundry and powder room is probably not the best choice for a floating sheet good fiber floor. Too many pinch points. I have had calls where a floating LVT was sold for a church and they want to bolt the church pews down through the floating LVT. Like I said before, not every application is for a floating floor.

Floating floors are here to stay. Take the time to explore the entire installation scenario to ensure that this floating floor is best suited for the application you are about to sell and install it in. I also strongly suggest completely checking out the installation requirements for the flooring you are about to install. Generally the requirements are similar, but there may be some small differences from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Flexco/Roppe AcoustiCORK CorkPLUS 250 (commercially warranted under most resilient flooring systems)

Sound Ratings

Sound transmission is rated using three different standards, each defining a different way in which sound is transmitted. Sound absorption of floor coverings may be measured on two of those scales. The third covers room-to-room transmission, more appropriate for walls. The higher the number, the better the sound isolation. 

IIC (impact insulation class) IIC measures a floor/ceiling assembly’s resistance to the transmission of structure-borne or impact noise. IIC is measured in terms of sound impact, or how well sound vibration travels through a floor to the room below. Generally, an IIC rating of 50 will satisfy the building code requirements. The Uniform Building Code (UBC) contains requirements for sound isolation for dwelling units in Group-R occupancies (including hotels, motels, apartments, condominiums, monasteries and convents). 

NRC (noise reduction coefficient) measures the amount of noise that is absorbed by the material and not reflected. A room with a high NRC rating would eliminate background noise and echoes to help clarify speech. Theaters, for example, must be constructed to have a high NRC rating.

Without it, sound waves would bounce off the walls and crash into each other, creating a cacophony of continuous sound, making individual words impossible to distinguish. Carpet, with an NRC rating of .40–.50 is the most efficient absorptive material. Vinyl, cork, and rubber have a fairly high NRC rating, with hardwood, bamboo, tile, and stone at the bottom of the scale for sound absorption.

STC (Sound Transmission Class). STC is a laboratory measurement of the ability of a specific construction assembly to reduce airborne sounds including voice, television and alarm clocks. Basically, rates a material’s ability to block airborne sound.

The higher the value of any of the Sound Classes listed above, the greater the airborne or impact isolation provided by the assembly. With resilient flooring, the IIC rating is generally specified, and occasionally an STC rating. This is classified through ASTM E492.

I receive many calls from dealers asking for products that meet a specific IIC rating. Before giving them an answer, there are many subfloor/ceiling factors to consider that can affect the IIC rating. Many sound reducing membrane manufacturers will publish an IIC rating, but will not specify what the tested subfloor/ceiling system is, which can make quite a difference in the IIC rating.

For instance, is the subfloor:

• Concrete
  • 6 inches thick or 8 inches thick (the thicker the concrete, the better the IIC)
  • Is there a gypsum topping on the concrete (gypsum has very good sound deadening properties)
  • Is there a gypsum/suspended ceiling or not

Increasing the mass of the concrete, thickness of the gypsum ceiling board, or the amount of sound absorbing material all increase the IIC rating.

• Joist Systems 
  • Solid wood, I-Joist, Steel joist, or wood trusses
  • Height of the joist system
  • Does it have a gypsum topping on top of the subfloor
  • Is there insulation 
  • Is there a gypsum/suspended ceiling or not 

Please note, Johnsonite/Tarkett does not have an acoustical underlayment, but they do have products with an acoustical barrier built into the product to assist with sound deadening. 

• iQ Optima Acoustiflor 3.7mm thick (Homogeneous) 
• Acczent Wood Acoustiflor 3.35mm thick (Heterogeneous) 
• Vento Acoustiflor 3.8mm thick (Linoleum) 

It is important that the finished flooring not directly contact the perimeter walls or vertical partitions of the entire floor area, including any openings or protrusions such as electrical boxes, heating ducts, cold air returns, columns or pipes in the subfloor installation. Installing a perimeter isolation barrier prevents the transmission of vibration in the subfloor to the walls, where it could bypass the flooring structure and transmit the sound. 

Nailing through a sound reducing membrane negates the sound deadening properties. The nails will transmit the sound through the sound deadening membrane. Example, a 3.″ wide engineered hardwood stapled every 6 inches in a 10 foot by 10 foot room will require 738 staples. 

With glue down Hardwood flooring today, other than cork underlayments, the use of “All In One Adhesives” also offers sound reduction. These products include; 

• Anderson enSurance 3X Triple Options 
• Armstrong Summit Adhesive 
• Bostik MVP in use with Bostik’s Best, BST, EFA and TKO Adhesives 
• Bostik Ultra-Set SingleStep 
• DriTac 1001, DriTac SMC, and the new DriTac 7700 Easy Clean 
• Mapei Ultrabond ECO 985 & 995 

Wood species are considered more or less stable based on whether they expand and contract more or less with changes in their moisture content. When wood absorbs or looses moisture below the Fiber Saturation Point (around 25-30%) wood swells or shrinks. To make matters worse shrinking and swelling is often accompanied by warping.

Wood has always been sensitive to moisture. It absorbs and loosens moisture until equilibrium with the surrounding air has been reached. For every hardwood moisture content, there is one specific relative humidity and temperature, when wood does not gain or lose any moisture. This moisture content is called the EMC or equilibrium moisture content. Once the equilibrium moisture content (EMC) is reached and the relative humidity and ambient temperature are not changing, wood is dimensionally stable. Ideal conditions have been reached and no more shrinking or warping will occur.

Hardwood is expected to shrink in dry environments and expand in wetter environments. Wider boards tend to move more than narrower boards. Movement in a 5″ wide plank is more dramatic than in a 2 ¼” strip. Oak flooring is milled at 6-9%. Prior to installation, solid wood flooring should be acclimated in the area where it will be installed, and then tested with a moisture meter to ensure the proper moisture content.

A 50% swing in relative humidity produces a moisture content change of 10%. How that affects wood flooring depends on which species is being used. The change in width is 1/16″ inch change in a 2 ¼” wide board. That’s a full inch over 16 boards in a floor. Over the width of a 10 foot wide room, that amounts to more than three inches of total expansion or contraction.

Even if the floor was installed properly and the hardwood flooring was dry at the time of installation, some wood movement can occur when the relative humidity changes with the change of seasons. Hardwood may shrink and small cracks appear during the dry winter months with the heat turned on. The cracks disappear during the wetter summer months.

Today, there better humidity and environmental control systems for interior living conditions than ever before, but not all homes have them. Humidifiers, dehumidifiers, air-conditioners, heating systems and outside ambient moisture conditions can all effect changes in the ambient moisture conditions which may, over time, effect changes in the moisture content of a hardwood floor.

Proper acclimation of a wood flooring product prior to install will equalize the moisture content of the floor boards and subfloor to the conditions present at that time, but if those conditions significantly change over time then some corresponding expansion/contraction change in the wood could also be expected. Some seasonal gapping or cupping may result from such changes in the ambient moisture conditions. Controlling the relative humidity within the room will help eliminate this problem.

Every hardwood flooring manufacturer has a recommended Relative Humidity Range for their hardwood flooring. If you’re not having this conversation with your customers, you’re only asking for problems. Keep the environment between 35-50% relative humidity. Maintaining a controlled environment is critical to the performance of the hardwood flooring product.

Below are examples showing the difference in the equilibrium moisture content (EMC) between dry winters and moist summers:

• 70^oF and 75% relative humidity, wood moisture will reach 14%. 
• 70^oF and 35% relative humidity, wood moisture will reach 7%. 
• 70^oF and 20% relative humidity, wood moisture will reach 4.5%. 

Characteristics:

There are two major types of frieze carpeting materials. Higher quality frieze carpets, made from nylon or wool fabrics, and frieze carpets made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET). The first option generally costs more, but wears better and offers superior strength. Though PET materials are not as resilient, frieze carpeting in itself is an excellent choice for most home owners and in office spaces.

Frieze carpets are made of short, twisted fibers with strands measuring less than ¼ inch. Each carpet tuft has two ply’s of yard, twisted together in 3-5 twists per inch. Higher quality frieze carpeting will contain up to 7-9 twists per inch, creating a curled appearance. The fibers flop, concealing dirt, footprints and even vacuum marks. That carpet fibers are loosely constructed, lending itself to the nickname “shag” or “California shag.”

Advantages:

The short fibers make frieze perfect for high traffic areas. Its twisted fibers flop in a lackluster manner, easily concealing dirt, stains and foot prints. This durable carpet offers a long life that requires little maintenance, and comes in a wide variety of colors and patterns.

Frieze carpet has a naturally clean appearance and its speckled style further conceals dirt and stains. This carpet is soft and cozy to walk on. Its thick, plush material makes it extra desirable during the winter months—both for its comfort and its heat saving qualities.

It’s thick material also doubles as a noise reducer through its sound absorption qualities. Its thick material is also ideal for deformed or marred floors and hallways as its plush material appears inviting and creates a level appearance for floors that may be otherwise.

Disadvantages:

Frieze carpet doesn’t have too many disadvantages, provided you or your client likes its aesthetic appearance. Compared to non-textured carpeting, frieze carpet can be expensive.

Frieze carpeting made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers are less expensive, but also conceal less dirt and foot traffic and require more cleaning and care than nylon and wool versions. The PET fibers also offer less durability and shorter life span as it does not wear as well as nylon and wool versions.

Nylon fibered frieze carpeting is the superior choice, however it is the most expensive option when it comes to this shag carpet.

Tips for Cleaning:

In order to best preserve the fibers in the frieze carpet, and maximize the lifespan of the material, carpets should be vacuumed at least every two weeks. The vacuum should also contain a beater bar which helps shake up any dirt hidden beneath the individual carpet fibers. Professional cleanings should take place at least twice a year.

Materials To Keep On Hand:

• Soft-Bristled Broom
• Dish Soap or Neutral Chemical Cleaner
• Bucket
• Soft-Sponge Mop
• Microfiber Cloth
• Vinegar
• Murphy Oil Soap

Step 1:

It’s important to regularly sweep and dust cork floors. This is also the first step in any floor cleaning process. When it comes to cork floors, always use a soft bristled broom to remove dirt and debris.

Step 2:

Fill a bucket with warm water and add a little dish soap or neutral chemical cleaner. Do ensure the cleaner you use is neither acidic nor basic—this can damage the sealant used on cork floors. If using dish soap, use a very minimal amount. An excess of soap in the water will leave a film on the floor once it dries.

Step 3:

Use a soft-sponge mop to wipe down the floor. Do ring out the mop well before starting. When it comes to cork flooring, less is definitely more. Any excess amount of water will quickly saturate the cork in the floor, which can cause the joints of the flooring to swell.

Step 4:

To dry, gently wipe down with a soft, microfiber cloth and allow the floor to air dry.

Once a Week:

Once a week, clean the cork floor by damp mopping with a small amount of vinegar. Dilute a very small amount of vinegar in a bucket of water—one-fourth cup of vinegar per one gallon bucket. Wet a microfiber cloth with the solution and ring out so that it is just barely damp before wiping down the floor.

Twice a Year:

Approximately every six months, cork flooring should be given a “hands and knees” scrub using a very small amount Murphy Oil Soap.

Every 5-7 Years:

Cork flooring should be given a nice refurbishing every five to seven years using polyurethane, such as Bona Traffic, a polyurethane satin finish. This will be most necessary for cork flooring that experiences heavy traffic from dogs and children, etc.

To Avoid:

Many commercial products on the market today are considered very harmful to cork flooring. Owners should avoid all Swiffer chemical products, Orange Glo, Mop & Glo as well as bleach cleaners or other harsh materials. These types of cleaners will quickly absorb into the porous material of the cork, thus damaging the flooring. Common commercial cleaners such as Swiffer and Orange Glo will create very streaky results on the cork flooring material.

Tips:

• All spills should be immediately wiped up using paper towels.
• Collection trays should be used under all plants and under pet bowls to avoid water from penetrating the floor.
• Breathable mats should be placed in front of sinks or exterior doorways to prevent build-up of moisture.
• Furniture should never be dragged across the floor—it can cause scratching. Magic sliders or other materials should be used under furniture and under chairs that are often pulled across the floor.
• Sharp objects should be kept away from the flooring. This includes vacuuming without an agitator, which can permanently scratch the cork material. Dog nails should also be kept trimmed.
• Cork flooring should be kept away from direct sunlight. Shades, blinds and drapes should be utilized to minimize exposure to sunlight.